cs, Author at 7 Saturdays Financial https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/author/cs/ Flat-Fee Planning and Investments Mon, 08 Apr 2024 02:37:12 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7 Understanding your Lockheed Martin 401(k) plan https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/lockheed-401k/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=lockheed-401k https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/lockheed-401k/#respond Tue, 04 Jul 2023 11:49:09 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=853 Whether you’re a new hire or you’ve been with Lockheed Martin for decades, you may have questions about your 401(k). This benefit is a critical element in your retirement planning and it’s essential to understand the nuances of the plan.

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Lockheed 401(k) plan

Whether you’re a new hire or you’ve been with Lockheed Martin for decades, you may have questions about your 401(k). This benefit is a critical element in your retirement planning and it’s essential to understand the nuances of the plan.

Below are some of the most common questions about the Salaried Savings Plan (SSP).



How much does Lockheed contribute to my 401(k)?


Lockheed Martin contributes to the 401(k) plan in two ways:

  1. Company contribution of 6% of base pay, regardless of employee contribution
  2. Company match of 50% on the first 8% you contribute, up to a maximum of 4%

Let’s walk through a couple of scenarios:

  • If you contribute $0, you’ll still get the company match of 6%.
  • If you contribute 4%, you’ll receive the company match of 6% PLUS 50% of the 4% you contributed, for a total company contribution of 8%.
  • If you contribute 8%, you’ll receive the company match of 6% PLUS 50% of the 8% you contributed, for a total company contribution of 10%.


How much can I contribute to my 401(k)?


You can contribute up to 40% of your weekly base pay, up to a 2023 annual maximum of $22,500 between Roth and pre-tax contributions ($30,000 if age 50 or older).

BONUS: The plan also allows after-tax contributions, which can supercharge your retirement savings.

Using after-tax contributions, it’s possible to go above the “normal” 401(k) limit of $22,500 or $30,000 and get up to $66,000 into your account ($73,500 if age 50 or older). This limit includes all employee contributions (pre-tax, Roth, after-tax) and employer contributions.

After you’ve filled up your $22,500 or $30,000 limit between pre-tax and Roth contributions, using after-tax contributions enables you to shovel even more money into tax-advantaged accounts. This maneuver is known as the “Mega Backdoor Roth.”



What is the Mega Backdoor Roth?


Below is a graphic showing how the different contributions stack to reach the $66,000 total limit (assuming age < 50):


Mega backdoor Roth

Here’s what makes the after-tax contributions valuable: they can be converted to Roth within the 401(k) plan. This is a great way to get an extra $20,000 – $30,000+ into a Roth account for tax-free growth and withdrawal (for qualified distributions).

It’s important to note that any earnings accumulated on the after-tax money between contribution and conversion WILL be taxable as ordinary income when converted. Thus, it is best not to let too much time elapse for earnings to build up. The Lockheed plan allows one in-plan Roth conversion per calendar year.



Should I choose Roth 401(k) or Traditional 401(k)?


The choice between Roth or Traditional (pre-tax) contributions is a personal one that depends on your financial situation and goals. Both options offer benefits, and deciding which one is right for you will depend primarily on your current tax bracket versus your expected future tax bracket.

Lockheed Martin’s traditional 401(k) offers an immediate tax break, as contributions are made with pre-tax dollars, lowering your taxable income in the current year. However, when you withdraw the funds in retirement, you will be taxed on the total amount of the distribution. This may be fine if your tax bracket is lower at that time.

There are other issues to consider beyond “tax bracket now vs. at retirement” including Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs) at age 73 or 75, income-based Medicare surcharges (IRMAA), and the potential for tax rates to change in the future.

Having a mix of pre-tax, Roth, and even taxable assets in retirement is a powerful position because you have tremendous control over your tax rate in any given year.

If you’re unsure which option is best for you, consult a flat-fee financial planner for expert guidance.



How much should I be contributing to my 401(k)?


Like many questions in personal finance, the correct answer is “It depends.”

The answer will vary based on factors like your current invested assets, retirement expense needs, other retirement income like Social Security, pensions, or annuities, and when you want to retire.

An employee without a pension who intends to retire at age 50 must save and invest much more than a colleague with a sizeable pension who wants to retire at age 65.

Many financial planning studies suggest that total retirement savings should average around 15-20% of gross income. However, you must run your personalized numbers to ensure you’re saving enough to retire at your desired age with your desired lifestyle.



What can I invest in within my 401(k) plan?


Lockheed Martin offers a range of investment options for its 401(k) plan. Depending on their investment goals and risk tolerance, employees can choose to invest in various asset classes, including stocks, bonds, and cash.

The plan also offers target date funds, which automatically adjust their investments over time, becoming more conservative as the employee approaches retirement.

You may even utilize the self-directed feature inside the Lockheed Martin 401(k), which offers more investment options, including mutual funds.



Can I roll my old 401(k) or IRA into the Lockheed Martin 401(k)?


Yes, the plan allows rollover contributions. Evaluating the account fees and fund costs between your other plan and the Lockheed 401(k) before deciding whether to roll money in is essential.

One benefit of moving an IRA into the 401(k) plan is that once all your pretax IRA money is sheltered inside a 401(k), it opens up the ability to execute the Backdoor Roth IRA. Note that this is different than the Mega Backdoor Roth described above.



When are my contributions and company contributions vested?


You are immediately vested in all contributions to your account and any associated earnings.



How will my Lockheed Martin 401(k) fit with my legacy pension?


If you’re fortunate enough to have a pension, it’s important to understand all your options and how your income sources and assets fit together as part of your retirement income plan.

Frequently Asked Questions about the Lockheed Martin pension plan can be found here.



Where do I go to manage my Lockheed 401(k)?


You can view account balances and make adjustments by navigating to LM People > Pay and Benefits > Savings Plan – Empower. Or, go directly to www.lockheedmartinsavings.com



About the author: Allen Mueller, CFA, MBA, is an “engineer turned finance nerd” and founder of 7 Saturdays Financial. The core focus of his firm is helping Aerospace & Defense employees achieve financial freedom.

Schedule your complimentary intro call today!


Note: this article is general guidance and education, not advice. Consult your money person or your attorney for financial, tax, and legal advice specific to your situation.




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]]> https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/lockheed-401k/feed/ 0 Reader Question: “I lost money on bonds. Should I sell?” https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/reader-question-i-lost-money-on-bonds-should-i-sell/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=reader-question-i-lost-money-on-bonds-should-i-sell https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/reader-question-i-lost-money-on-bonds-should-i-sell/#respond Sat, 04 Mar 2023 21:41:16 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=565 So, you lost money on bonds. The first question to ask yourself is – “Why did I decide that bonds belong in my portfolio in the first place?”

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Thanks for the question, David! Here’s the full text –

I lost money on bonds, should I liquidate or hold the course? Investments are in an IRA so cannot write off the losses.



Answer


The first question to ask yourself is – “Why did I decide that bonds belong in my portfolio in the first place?”

Has that reason changed?

If an asset is part of your financial plan, recent performance shouldn’t affect your decisions. There will often be times when part of your portfolio is losing money.

This is normal and doesn’t necessarily mean it was a wrong decision to own those assets. An efficient portfolio is designed to work as a system – certain segments balance out the risks of others. Diversification and rebalancing are key for keeping risk in line, and performance should be evaluated as a whole over multiple years.

Abandoning a long-term investment strategy because of recent losses is like closing the barn door after all the cows have run away!

While bonds aren’t as volatile as stocks, they can have moderate swings in a short period as we saw in 2022. To help you better understand the fixed-income asset class, I’ll cover some fundamentals:

First, you can expect riskier (more volatile) investments to generate higher returns than lower-risk investments. This is why stocks have higher expected returns than bonds, and bonds have higher expected returns than cash.

Next, let’s talk about the two main types of bond risk: duration and credit.


Interest Rate Risk (Duration)


Interest rates and bond values move in opposite directions so when interest rates go up, bonds fall in value and vice versa.




This asset class got slammed last year because the Federal Reserve raised interest rates seven times. There’s a silver lining to interest rate increases, though – new bonds are paying higher income (yield).

In the case of bond funds, new bonds that enter the fund to replace older ones will generate higher yields. This higher income will, over time, offset the value lost from the interest rate increases.

The number of years it takes for the effects of interest rate increases (value decrease + yield increase) to neutralize each other is approximately equal to the fund’s duration. This is a gauge of interest rate sensitivity and is a common measure to use when comparing bonds. High-duration funds hold longer-term bonds and will be more sensitive to rate changes compared to short-duration funds.

Since we know bond prices move the opposite direction of interest rates, it prompts an interesting question:

If I know interest rates will increase, should I avoid bonds or switch to short-term/short-duration?

It’s a logical train of thought.

However, even if we “know” (think) the Federal Reserve is going to increase rates, their adjustments only directly affect the overnight lending rate.

The Fed doesn’t go down the list of different bond maturities and physically adjust the 1-year rate, the 5-year rate, the 10-year rate, etc. These other rates are based on the market prices for the bonds which are set by market forces of supply and demand.

And just like any market, it’s hard to predict exactly what will happen. Expectations about the economy, inflation, and future interest rate increases are already baked in to market prices!

An example of market dynamics: If 10 year bonds are desirable, more people will be buying than selling which drives up the price. This price increase reduces the yield. When the yield gets to a point that the market no longer finds attractive, buyers stop buying and equilibrium is reached.

Overnight Rate: Fed -> Rate

Other Rates: Market -> Price -> Yield (rate)


Lost money on bonds - Yield curve and federal funds rate


Overnight rates are directly impacted by Fed rate adjustments. Very short-term bonds like T-bills (maturing in less than 52 weeks) will be somewhat sensitive to rate adjustments. But for longer maturities, it’s anyone’s guess and there are about a gazillion things that affect market dynamics.

Imagine grabbing the end of a 25-foot rope that is stretched out on the ground. If you swing your arm up, the rope closest to your hand will experience the greatest movement but the other end of the rope will move little, if at all.

This is a good metaphor for interest rate dynamics – the overnight rate is directly affected, very short-term bonds are somewhat affected, and longer-term bonds move much less predictably.


Credit Risk


The other risk factor for bonds is credit risk – the possibility you may not receive the interest or principal you’re promised.

Treasuries (government bonds) are considered to be zero credit risk because the government can simply tax its way out of budget challenges. Corporations don’t have that same ability – they can go bankrupt and default on their debt.

The less stable a company is, the higher the risk of default, and the lower its bond values. Remember, lower value means higher yields! Low quality corporates are also called “junk bonds” or “high yield.”


Now, back to why you chose to hold bonds in your portfolio…


It’s important to understand that fixed-income assets can provide varying degrees of stability, diversification, and/or income depending on the type that are selected.

Stability

  • Short-term bonds are more stable and less sensitive to interest rates than long-term bonds.

Diversification

  • Treasuries are a better diversifier for a stock-heavy portfolio than corporate bonds because treasuries are free of credit risk.
  • There is usually a flight to safety during economic downturns, and this often causes treasury prices to rise while stocks are falling. This effect stabilizes the overall portfolio and reduces volatility.
  • Corporate bond values get dragged down during recessions (due to credit risk) and fail to provide diversification when it is needed the most!
  • Long-term treasuries are considered to be better diversifiers than short-term treasuries.

Income

  • Short-term bonds are less risky (duration) than long-term bonds so they pay lower yields.
  • Treasuries are less risky (credit) than corporate bonds so they pay lower yields.
  • High-yield corporates (junk bonds) are riskier than other corporates and generate higher income.

As you can see, there is no free lunch.


Bond tradeoff triangle - income, stability, and diversification


If you want more stability, you’re giving up some diversification and income.

If you want more income, you’re giving up some stability and diversification.


Putting it all together:


It can be alarming when you lose money on a “safe” asset like bonds, but it’s always important to keep a long term view.

  • Is your plan still on track?
  • Have you rebalanced to manage risk?
  • Is your portfolio designed to work as a system or is it a hodgepodge collection of assets you threw together?

Don’t look at the bond portion of your portfolio in isolation – think about your asset mix (stocks/bonds/alternatives/cash) as a whole and the role(s) you want bonds to play. Choose the appropriate type for this objective.

A suitable portfolio balances risk with return and aligns with your goals, timeline, and risk tolerance.

Book a free consultation if you’d like help creating a financial plan and designing an investment portfolio that is right for you!




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]]> https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/reader-question-i-lost-money-on-bonds-should-i-sell/feed/ 0 Here Are The Top 3 Raytheon Benefits You May Be Missing https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/raytheon-benefits/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=raytheon-benefits https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/raytheon-benefits/#respond Wed, 25 Jan 2023 18:56:34 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=726 Medical, dental, and vision insurance are standard. So is a 401(k) retirement plan. But there are several other Raytheon benefits that many employees aren’t fully utilizing or aren’t even aware of!

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Raytheon benefits


Raytheon Technologies is a Fortune 100 company and, like most large firms, offers a generous benefits package to employees.

Medical, dental, and vision insurance are standard. So is a 401(k) retirement plan. But there are several other Raytheon benefits that many employees aren’t fully utilizing or aren’t even aware of!


Commonly overlooked benefits that can add massive value:


1) Maxing out your Health Savings Account (HSA)


Most people view their health savings account (HSA) as a place to park money for the upcoming year’s medical expensesBut the HSA is a supercharged retirement account in disguise!

It is the only investment vehicle that is triple tax-advantaged: zero tax on contribution, growth, and withdrawal if used for qualified medical expenses. Additionally, HSA contributions funded through payroll deductions avoid employment taxes (Social Security and Medicare). This gives the HSA an advantage over other accounts for long-term wealth building.

Money in your HSA belongs to you and is rolled over year-to-year, unlike a flexible spending account (FSA) which is “use it or lose it.” Most people with HSA’s treat it like a FSA though – they estimate medical costs for the upcoming year and contribute that amount, depleting the HSA as they incur expenses.

This approach is suboptimal.

Ideally, you want to squirrel away as much as possible in this powerful account and invest the surplus for long-term growth. A best practice is to max the account and not withdraw anything until after years or decades of tax-free growth. You can save digital receipts for current-year medical expenses, and reimburse yourself in the future for tax-free income.

HSA money can be withdrawn after age 65 for non-medical purposes and is taxed as ordinary income, just like pre-tax 401(k) or IRA withdrawals.

The maximum HSA contribution for 2023 is $3,850 for an individual and $7,750 for a family. If you’re over age 55, you can invest another $1,000. Be aware these limits include the Raytheon contribution, which varies from $750 to $1,500 depending on how many people are on your plan.


2) Mega Backdoor Roth 401(k)


If you’re a high earner, you’re probably maxing out your pre-tax or Roth 401(k) ($22,500 in 2023 if under age 50, $30,000 if 50 or over). Raytheon matches with a contribution of 3-4% of your salary.

Did you know that you can contribute much more than that to your 401(k) – up to $66,000?

The key is after-tax contributions. The RAYSIP plan allows total inflows up to $66,000 per year – including your pretax/Roth contributions, the company match, and any after-tax contributions.

Here’s how the different contribution amounts stack to reach the $66,000 cap:


Mega backdoor Roth


Once the after-tax contributions are in the account, you can convert them to Roth through Your Gateway or by calling the plan administrator at 1-800-243-8135. The conversion of after-tax contributions is not taxable. This “Mega Backdoor Roth” strategy is an easy method to get money into a Roth account if you’re over the income threshold to contribute directly.

Sheltering money inside a Roth is almost always better than receiving those funds in your paycheck and contributing them to a non-qualified taxable account. Income like dividends and interest in a taxable account is (surprise!) taxable in the year you receive it, and capital gains are taxable in the year they are realized. Roth dollars are never taxed on the income or growth!*

A couple caveats:

  • It’s important to note that any earnings accumulated on the after-tax money between contribution and conversion WILL be taxable as ordinary income when converted. Thus, it is best not to let too much time elapse for earnings to build up. I recommend setting a reminder and converting at least semiannually.
  • If you contribute too much after-tax too early in the year, it can “squeeze out” the employer match. Your employer has to stay under $66K in total contributions and will reduce the match if necessary. A common practice is to go light on after-tax contributions for Q1-Q3 and then reassess what the contribution needs to be for Q4.

*Roth withdrawals are not taxable if they are qualified distributions.


3) Group Legal Plan


Raytheon offers a group legal plan through MetLife, which covers consultation with an attorney on a variety of matters:

  • Family law issues like adoption, custody, name changes
  • Financial matters, including debt collection defense and identity theft
  • Traffic matters involving ticket defense and misdemeanor defense
  • Legal document review

However, the most important benefit for most people is coverage for estate planning which includes creating wills and trusts.

If you don’t have an estate plan, it is crucial to get this taken care of. In the absence of a will, your state decides who gets custody of your children, who makes medical decisions on your behalf, and who gets your assets upon your death. A trust takes estate planning a step further and gives more control over the timing of asset distributions. One use case for a trust is preventing minor children from potentially receiving a large inheritance as soon as they turn 18.

The 2023 cost for MetLife Legal Plan is $12.80 per month. So you can get an entire estate plan in place for around $150 and then cancel the benefit the following year. Compare this to typical attorney fees of $2,000-$3,000 to create these documents, and you can see why the Group Legal Plan is such a tremendous value add!


Conclusion


Raytheon employee benefits are a significant component in your total compensation package.

Make sure you’re taking advantage of all of the Raytheon benefits available. If you have a financial advisor, they should be reviewing your benefits annually to help you make decisions that align with your values and goals.

7 Saturdays Financial specializes in helping Aerospace & Defense professionals achieve financial freedom. Schedule your complimentary intro call today!




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]]> https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/raytheon-benefits/feed/ 0 Should You Pay Off Debt Or Invest? https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/pay-off-debt-or-invest/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=pay-off-debt-or-invest https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/pay-off-debt-or-invest/#respond Tue, 17 Jan 2023 21:06:37 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=750 You’ve got extra cash! Maybe it’s from a raise, a bonus, or cutting expenses. Now, you want to improve your financial fitness but aren’t sure whether you should aggressively pay down debt or invest it.

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should you pay off debt or invest meme


You’ve got extra cash! Maybe it’s from a raise, a bonus, or cutting expenses. Now, you want to improve your financial fitness but aren’t sure whether you should aggressively pay down debt or invest it.

Like most topics in personal finance, the correct answer is “it depends.”

There is good news -neither option is wrong. Both are much better for your wealth than an Amazon shopping spree or rushing out to buy a new car.

You should not make your choice based on “one-size-fits-all” advice that a guy on the radio prescribes, but rather your family’s situation, values, and goals.

Here are a few factors to consider when making your decision:


First – what’s the interest rate on your debt?


Credit cards typically have rates of 15 – 25%, whereas a 30-year mortgage rate could be sub-3%. Compare that to an investment portfolio expected to generate 7-10% annually over the long term.

Borrowing money at credit card rates and investing to earn a lower return doesn’t make sense. In this case, you’re better off directing every dollar you can toward extinguishing that debt. An exception would be investing up to your employer match in a retirement plan like a 401(k) or 403(b) since that match is “free money.”

On the other hand, a low-interest mortgage is a reasonable debt to pay the minimum on and carry as long as possible. The interest on this debt is tax deductible (only relevant if you itemize on your tax return). Sensible investments earn more than 3% over the long term, so you’re essentially borrowing at a low rate to invest at a higher rate.

If you have a cash reserve beyond an adequate emergency fund, consider using the surplus to pay down your highest interest debt. Checking and savings accounts historically pay low rates and you can often “earn” a higher rate by reducing debt instead of letting cash sit idle.


Remember that investment returns are volatile


Investment returns are not guaranteed.

That’s why they generate higher returns than cash over the long-term – because you’re willing to accept uncertainty. There can be long stretches with negative returns, and history has produced a few periods when you’d have been better off paying off your mortgage than investing.

Paying off debt – even low-interest debt – provides a guaranteed return and can offer peace of mind.

I’ve never heard anyone say they regret paying off their mortgage early.

Carrying zero debt can also make it easier to swing life transitions like a career change, sabbatical, or early retirement.


Think beyond debt interest rate vs. investment ROI


Comparing the interest rate on your debt with investment returns is a simple method. Those approaching retirement have additional variables to consider – how much will they need to withdraw from investments every year to cover debt payments? And what does that mean for the bottom line?

A retiree with $1,500/month mortgage payments will need to raise $18,000 more from *somewhere* than if their house were paid off.

That $18K would typically be withdrawn from their portfolio.

Depending on the account type(s) that are pulled from, this could require a $22K+ withdrawal (and increase to taxable income) to cover the taxes and $18K proceeds.

Larger withdrawals in retirement can mean:

  • A higher effective tax rate
  • More portfolio depletion during down years
  • Higher tax rates on Social Security income or dividends/capital gains
  • Less room in the current bracket for strategic Roth conversions, tax gain harvesting, etc.
  • Higher AGI/MAGI which affects shadow taxes like IRMAA (Medicare surcharge), ACA premium tax credits, and deduction/credit phase-outs

Retirees should work with a competent financial planner that understands long-range tax planning. They can look at the overall situation and advise on impacts of carrying debt versus paying it off early.


Takeaway


You may have trouble deciding on if you should prioritize paying off debt or investing. Remember – it doesn’t have to be a binary decision. There’s always the option to split your cash and tackle both goals.

Personal finance is always personal, so choose the option that aligns with your family’s values and objectives!

If you have questions about debt management, reach out and book a complimentary intro meeting.




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]]> https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/pay-off-debt-or-invest/feed/ 0 Are I Bonds A Good Investment? (October 2022) https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/i-bonds-investment/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=i-bonds-investment https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/i-bonds-investment/#respond Wed, 05 Oct 2022 12:59:55 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=759 Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the last year, you’ve probably heard of I bonds.

What are they? Are I Bonds a good investment? Should you invest in I Bonds now, or are you late to the party?

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I Bonds from Treasury


Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the last year, you’ve probably heard of I bonds.

What are they? Are I Bonds a good investment? Should you invest in I Bonds now, or are you late to the party?

Read on to learn more about them and to understand if they may be a good fit for your situation.


What are I Bonds?


“I Bonds” is the common name for Series I Savings Bonds that the US Treasury issues at www.treasurydirect.gov. The interest rate on these bonds adjusts for inflation, and it resets every six months. I Bonds have been gaining popularity since 2021 as inflation (measured by CPI) began spiking above historical norms.

The current rate for I Bonds is 9.62% which applies to the first six months you own them (if you buy before October 31st, 2022). This interest rate is insane for a risk-free investment – principal value plus interest is guaranteed! You cannot lose money on I bonds, and the return is close to the stock market’s historical average of 10% (which is NOT guaranteed).

For comparison, 1-year and 2-year Treasury Bonds currently yield about 4.15% and carry a risk of principal loss if you don’t hold to maturity. I Bonds continue to earn interest until you cash them in or until the bonds turn 30 years old.


So what’s the hair in the soup?


A couple of things. First, you can only buy $10,000 of I Bonds per social security number per year. Trusts, businesses, and children can all purchase them, so a family of 4 with an LLC and a trust could buy a maximum of $60,000 in a calendar year. Additionally, you can use your tax refund to purchase up to another $5,000 worth.

The second caveat is that you cannot redeem I Bonds in the first 12 months. So if you use your entire emergency fund to invest in them and your car’s transmission goes out a week later – tough break. That money is locked up for a year, and you might have to resort to a credit card. There’s also a three-month interest penalty if you redeem them within the first five years, although the interest rate is so high that this is not exactly a dealbreaker.

Finally, the interest rate adjusts every six months. The current rate for October 2022 – April 2023 is 9.62%, which means a 4.81% yield for the first six months you own them. The next six-month rate is 6.46% for the remainder of the first year (or the first six months if you buy November 2022 – May 2023).

Beyond that, the rate is uncertain but will be based on inflation metrics and has a floor of 0% (will not lose value).


How is the I Bond rate determined?


Consumer Price Index (CPI) is used to measure the level of a basket of consumer goods and is reported by the US Bureau of Labor Statistics monthly. The change (typically increase) in CPI over time is inflation. During the period of September 2021 to March 2022, CPI increased by 4.81% and this is what set the current I Bond annualized rate of 9.62% (4.81% semiannually x 2).

The next six-month rate is based on inflation from March 2022 to September 2022, and the CPI chart below shows how the rates are derived. CPI has been climbing quickly for the last two years but has virtually leveled off.


I Bond rates

Consumer Price Index (CPI) 2021-2022


A $10,000 investment in October at 9.62% (for half a year) would generate $481 of interest, and your new principal value in March would be $10,481. At the next six-month rate of 6.46% (for half a year), the end-of-year value would be $10,820. A full year’s return of 8.2% – not bad!

At this point you have two choices:
1) Redeem the bond and forfeit 3 months’ interest, dropping your ending value to $10,650 – still a great risk-free return of 6.5%
2) Continue to hold the bond until rates are no longer attractive

I Bonds can be a great risk-free investment if you have idle cash laying around that you won’t need for at least a year. It’s important to note that they only keep up with inflation, and aren’t a replacement for a long-term investment strategy. The interest you earn on I Bonds is exempt from state and local taxes but is taxable federally.

If you decide to buy I Bonds, purchase in October to guarantee the 9.62% rate for the first six months and 6.46% for the second. I recommend not waiting until the last few days in case there’s an issue with the transaction or settlement.

For more information or to purchase, head over to https://treasurydirect.gov/savings-bonds/i-bonds/

Are you an I Bond investor? Not sure when to buy or sell? Reach out for your free consultation to talk about your situation and goals!




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]]> https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/i-bonds-investment/feed/ 0 The Advisor Series Part 2: Conflicts of Interest and Other Issues https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/the-advisor-series-part-2/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-advisor-series-part-2 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/the-advisor-series-part-2/#respond Wed, 14 Sep 2022 19:11:45 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=774 First - what is a conflict of interest? Investopedia describes it as “A situation in which an entity or individual becomes unreliable because of a clash between personal (or self-serving) interests and professional duties or responsibilities.”

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Part 1 of The Advisor Series laid the foundation for understanding the basics of advisory fee and service models.

Part 2 builds on that foundation and explores issues like advisor conflicts of interest, cost vs. value, and other considerations for each fee structure.


conflict of interest


First – what is a conflict of interest?


Investopedia describes it as “A situation in which an entity or individual becomes unreliable because of a clash between personal (or self-serving) interests and professional duties or responsibilities.”

Let’s explore the different fee models with this lens.


Commission and Fee-based Models


A commissioned advisor earns income by selling insurance products (often marketed as investments), annuities, or mutual funds. The salesperson receives a commission from the company whose products they sold, and the amount of income depends on the specific policy or fund.

Recall from Part 1 that “Fee-based” is a meaningless marketing term as clients can pay the advisor directly OR the advisor can earn sales commissions.


Conflicts of Interest with Sales Commissions


The obvious conflict of a salesperson’s role is that no sale = no income. The advisor will be very motivated for you to buy from them and may even create a “financial plan” that demonstrates their products are the solution to your problems.

Let’s be clear – there’s nothing inherently wrong with a salesperson earning a commission. And sometimes, annuities and insurance policies can be exactly what the client needs (avoid the mutual funds loaded with sales fees, though).

But we’re kidding ourselves if we pretend there isn’t a massive conflict of interest when a salesperson who makes a commission is telling you their product is the BEST possible option for your situation. Red flag if they can only sell products from their company rather than shopping for the best deal in the overall marketplace.

Imagine saying, “Hey Toyota salesman! Do you think this base model Highlander is suitable, or should I buy the more expensive one? Maybe a Lexus? Or would a Honda Pilot better fit my needs and budget?”

Are they likely to recommend a product that provides them a lower or a higher commission? Or no commission at all if you don’t buy from them? How do you know if a specific recommendation is made based on your interests or their interests?

You don’t.

For this reason, it’s best to separate the recommendation from the actual sale.

A fee-only advisor can recommend a specific product and refer you to a trusted broker who shops with multiple companies for implementation.


Other Issues with Commissions


If you’re looking for ongoing financial planning or investment management, buying a product will not satisfy your needs. The person who sold the product has no incentive to provide continuing support beyond directing you to more products.

For ongoing advice, you’ll need to pay an ongoing fee. This is an excellent segue into the Fee-only models: AUM and Flat-fee.



Assets Under Management (AUM)


Assets Under Management (AUM) is the most common fee structure today.

Under this model, the client pays the advisor directly rather than the advisor receiving kickbacks on product sales. The fee is determined based on the client’s portfolio size (i.e., 1% of assets) and is billed directly from managed accounts.


Conflicts of Interest with AUM


Your advisor’s income is directly tied to the size of your portfolio. This should align your interests with their interests, right? The higher your return, the more money the advisor makes.

The hair in the soup is that advisors don’t produce returns – financial markets do.

The value of financial planning goes far beyond picking investments and it’s so incredibly difficult to “beat the market” with stock picking/market timing that almost all fund managers on Wall Street fail over the long term. So what are the odds Chad at the local broker’s office is the next Warren Buffet with a secret method to outguess the market? Not likely.

An advisor’s job is not to generate the highest return possible, but to develop an asset allocation (mix of stocks/bonds/alternatives) that is appropriate for YOUR situation and goals. For example, the best portfolio for you may have a slightly lower expected return with significantly lower volatility. A more stable allocation often means a higher probability of long-term success, especially approaching or in retirement.

When a professional provides advice and is compensated based on the size of your portfolio, it introduces perverse incentives into the relationship. Think about questions like:

  • Should I pay off my home?
  • Should I increase contributions to my 401(k)?
  • Can I afford to gift to family/charity?
  • Is an annuity appropriate for me?
  • Can I afford to retire yet?
  • Should I do Roth conversions?
  • Should I consider investing in real estate?
  • Should I take on less risk in my portfolio?

If an advisor answers “yes” to any of these questions, it means a smaller portfolio and a smaller paycheck. I’m sure there are many professionals who would not be swayed by this incentive, but it introduces a conflict of interest that the CFP® Board has specifically called out as “material.”

Surprisingly, it’s rare for firms to disclose this conflict to clients or prospective clients!


Other Issues With AUM



  1. Mandatory Management – The AUM model requires moving investments to the firm’s preferred custodian – no “advice only” option for those who are comfortable managing their own portfolio. Many firms will not advise on “held away” assets like 401(k)’s, real estate, or cryptocurrency.
  2. Asset Minimums – Most firms have asset minimums and won’t work with clients who don’t meet their wealth threshold.
  3. Arbitrary Fee Calculation – Portfolio size is a poor gauge of how complex a client’s situation is, and the AUM model implies that the principal value of an advisor is picking investments (rather than financial planning.) Managing a $2 million portfolio doesn’t require 10x the time or expertise versus one that is $200,000. Why does it cost 10x as much? Is the owner of the $2 million portfolio receiving service equal to $20,000 per year? I sure hope so!
  4. Market Fluctuations – A bull market can mean 30% gains in a year, and a bear market can cause similar losses. Is the advisor’s value directly linked with the economy? A downturn means the advisor is taking a pay cut. Should they be out hustling for new business to make up for the loss of income, or is it better if they’re focusing on planning opportunities for current clients like tax loss harvesting, Roth conversions, etc.?
  5. Rapid Fee Growth – Managing a $500,000 portfolio at 1% would cost $5,000 this year. If the investments grow at 8% on average, then the fee also rises 8% annually. Talk about inflation! Any other household expense growing at that rate would be a lightning rod. The unfortunate truth is that service stays relatively flat but the cost snowballs over time.
  6. Retirement Income Impairment – Fees are often absurdly high relative to the service provided. During retirement, advisory fees can consume 1/4 of a portfolio’s pretax income (assuming a 4% withdrawal rate and a 1% AUM fee). The effect is living on substantially less in retirement or working longer and amassing a 33% larger portfolio to cover the management expenses.


Flat-Fee


The flat-fee model is a modern pricing structure that challenges the status quo of asset-based pricing and commissioned sales.

Price is determined by the service provided, rather than the portfolio size or products sold. Advisors are free to give unbiased advice without compensation incentives tilting their recommendations. Thus, this model reduces client/advisor conflicts of interest.

Flat-fee firms typically offer various services – ongoing advice with optional investment management as well as limited engagements through project-based or hourly work.


Conflicts of Interest with Flat-Fee


It’s challenging to imagine conflicts of interest that are unique to this pricing model. However, you could point to conflicts in any business transaction- the buyer wants to pay less, and the seller wants to charge more.

Similarly, firms that offer hourly work could be incentivized to overstate their hours and collect more revenue. It is unlikely that either of these potential conflicts would bias the advice given to clients.


Other Issues with Flat-Fee


The flat-fee model can be more expensive than AUM early in an investor’s journey. For example, a family with $250,000 of assets would pay $2,500 for the first year under 1% AUM (if they meet the asset minimum). Similarly, a flat-fee planner could charge $4,000 – $6,000 for a year of service. It’s important to point out that AUM fees often only include investment management, whereas flat-fee service usually has a broader scope (including planning).

Additionally, flat-fee doesn’t mean “fixed-fee”. It’s reasonable to expect a firm to raise prices over time as the cost of living and business expenses rise. However, the fee increases will almost always pale in comparison to how quickly the AUM fees grow over time.

Below is a comparison of how a 1% AUM fee and a flat-fee impact a $500,000 portfolio over time. Both start at the same dollar value, but the AUM fee grows with the portfolio at 8% annually, whereas the flat-fee increases at the inflation rate (3%).


Flat-fee vs AUM cost

The difference in ending account value over 30 years is staggering – almost $500,000, which was the initial investment!

If you assume retirement at the end of the timeline using the 4% rule, the flat-fee investor would have $155,000 of annual pretax income after fees, and the AUM investor would receive $111,000 – a 28% decrease. A smaller retirement portfolio and a higher advisor fee through retirement explain the difference in income.


Conclusion


No fee model is perfect, but obviously some are better at protecting the client’s interests (and wealth!) than others.

Considering the conflicts of interest and the issues described above, I recommend investors narrow their search to only flat-fee advisors.

7 Saturdays Financial is proud to be a flat-fee firm that receives no sales commissions.

Part 3 of the Advisor Series will cover questions to ask as you interview advisors and key attributes to look for. Stay tuned!




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]]> https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/the-advisor-series-part-2/feed/ 0 The Advisor Series Part 1: Fee-based, Flat-fee, Fee-only… What the F? https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/the-advisor-series-part-1/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-advisor-series-part-1 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/the-advisor-series-part-1/#respond Thu, 16 Jun 2022 19:40:35 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=794 How are you supposed to figure out who to trust with your life savings?

My goal is to shine a light behind the curtain and arm you with information.

This set of articles, “The Advisor Series”, will help you understand the basics of pricing models, typical services provided, issues like conflicts of interest, and questions you should ask when deciding to work with a financial advisor/planner.

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Financial Services is a difficult industry for the average person to understand.

Simple concepts are overcomplicated and cloaked in jargon. Fees are often buried in product commissions or aren’t clearly communicated. Conflicts of interest are rarely disclosed.

Financial Advisors (or Financial Planners, or Wealth Managers, or Investment Advisors – what’s the difference?) usually have a string of letters after their name. What do all these credentials mean? Are they working in my best interest or their firm’s?

How are you supposed to figure out who to trust with your life savings?

My goal is to shine a light behind the curtain and arm you with information.

This set of articles, “The Advisor Series”, will help you understand the basics of pricing models, typical services provided, issues like conflicts of interest, and questions you should ask when deciding to work with a financial advisor/planner.

Part 1 starts the series by exploring the standard pricing models and the typical services each arrangement provides.

So let’s dive in!


Part 1: Fee Models


One of the most misunderstood aspects of personal finance is the advisor’s pricing model.

Although it seems like a minor detail, how the advisor is compensated is essential – it introduces conflicts of interest into the equation which can bias advice, and it also determines how much of your hard-earned money you’ll part with. Unfortunately for the clients, this can vary widely.

Choosing Advisor A can cost 5-10x for the same service as Advisor B in many situations!


A Brief History of Advisor Pricing Models


Until about 50 years ago, advisors made their living primarily through commissions from product sales and trading fees. This often led to advisors prioritizing the mutual funds that paid them the highest commissions rather than what was best for the client. It also incentivized excessive trading (churning) in investment accounts to drive up the per-trade revenues.

At that time, the advisors were essentially salespeople and the conversations often started with products – specific mutual funds or insurance schemes – rather than questions about the client’s situation and goals.

Imagine going to the doctor’s office and, before asking a single question about your symptoms, he hands you a prescription!

A new model started gaining popularity during the ’80s and ‘90s – Assets Under Management (AUM). Under the AUM model, clients pay advisors directly rather than the advisors receiving commissions from their firms for product sales.

Fees are quoted as a percentage of the managed portfolio size (1%, for example). Charging customers directly was a huge step in the right direction for transparency and reducing conflicts of interest.

Currently, about 90% of firms use the AUM model for at least a portion of their fees, with many firms choosing to receive commissions from product sales (mutual funds, annuities, insurance) as well.

New pricing models such as Flat-fee have entered the market in recent years, and are proliferating due to consumer demand. These alternative models are a natural evolution of the business and they offer many advantages for clients compared to legacy fee structures.


Categories of Fee Models


When describing the different pricing models, I like to separate everything into two categories:

  1. Those who receive commissions on product sales: Commission-based
  2. Those who are paid directly from the clients: Fee-only

You may have heard the term “Fee-based”, but it is not the same as #2.

“Fee-based” is a marketing term that product salespeople likely introduced to make it sound like they only are paid through fees. It’s actually a hybrid model that compensates the advisor through fees AND commissions. They can be paid with either (or both) depending on the product/service being offered.

Before we go any further, let’s introduce a visual aid to help you understand how everything fits together.


Advisor fee models


Notice everything on the right side is Commissions, the left side is Fee-only, and the overlap in the middle is Fee-based (paid through product commissions and fees).

Now that we’ve got a high-level understanding let’s dive in a bit deeper into the two primary models and typical services provided.


Commission-based Models


A commission-based advisor (salesperson) gets paid based on products they sell. They may pitch themselves as “free” to the client but make no mistake – they are paid through the fees or costs baked into the product.

Selling a whole life insurance policy can earn thousands of dollars in commissions, and selling a front-loaded mutual fund can earn 5% or more of the initial investment. Advisors operating under commissions typically offer minimal financial planning to ultimately sell a product.

Think of a car salesman asking you about your family size, how much driving you do, etc. The end goal is to sell you a product that may or may not be the best fit for you – they’re certainly not going to direct you to another dealership if that happens to be a better option. Ongoing guidance is uncommon with commissioned sales, because there’s no incentive to continue providing advice after the transaction.

Pretty straightforward, right? Let’s move on to the Fee-only side.


Fee-only Models


An advisor who is “Fee-only,” receives no sales commissions and is compensated only from clients directly. Fee-only is often confused with Flat-fee, but Flat-fee is a specific subset of the Fee-only category.

The two branches of the Fee-only category are Assets under Management and Flat-fee. The difference is in how the fees are calculated.


1) Assets Under Management (AUM)


For advisors using the AUM model, the price depends on the size of the managed portfolio. 1% is a typical figure and many firms offer a tiered model with discounts at certain levels (first $1M at 1%, next $1M at 0.75%, etc.)

A 1% AUM fee on a $1 million portfolio would cost $10,000 per year, rising over time with the portfolio’s growth. Investment management was historically the only service provided (with planning available for an additional cost), but now many firms include financial planning in their AUM fee.

Fees are deducted straight from client accounts which makes it is a “frictionless” transaction compared to paying with a check or credit card. Many families have no idea how much (in dollars) they’re actually paying their advisor because they haven’t multiplied the AUM percentage times their portfolio size!

Pro Tip: The AUM fee is usually in addition to the fund fees in the investment portfolio (often 0.5% or more), so be sure to add the two together to understand what you’re paying in total.

Kitces.com studies have benchmarked the average “all-in” fee for < $1M to be at least 1.65% (see image below). This would cost $8,250 annually for a $500K portfolio. If the advisor offers a “wrap fee” program, this includes the AUM fee and trading costs but typically excludes fund expense ratios.


Average all-in advisor fee

2) Flat-fee


Under the Flat-fee model, price depends on the service provided rather than the portfolio size – clients pay a flat dollar amount whether they have $50K of investable assets or $5M.

Comprehensive financial planning is the core focus of most Flat-fee firms, and this covers a broad scope of topics including retirement planning, tax-efficient accumulation/distribution strategies, investments, education funding, charitable giving, estate planning, employee benefits, etc.

Advice-only is a great option for clients who have the time, talent, and temperament to manage their investments but still want guidance on how to allocate their accounts and have a professional look at the rest of the planning areas. Advice is either one-time (project-based/hourly) or ongoing. Price ranges vary, but one-time projects usually cost $1,000-$6,000 depending on scope, and ongoing is in the $5,000-$10,000 per year range.

Clients who would rather have their investment accounts managed can pick a Flat-fee advisor who offers this service. Most will start the process with a comprehensive financial plan and offer investment management as part of the ongoing planning process or as a separate add-on fee.


Conclusion


Understanding how an advisor gets paid can be one of the most confusing aspects of finding a financial professional, but at a high level, remember these four points:

  1. Fee-based advisors also receive commissions from product sales.
  2. The cost for Commission-based advisors depends on products they sell.
  3. The cost for AUM advisors depends on the size of your portfolio.
  4. The cost for Flat-fee advisors depends on the services they provide.

Check out Part 2 of the Advisor Series, where I cover the real juicy stuff – conflicts of interest and other issues unique to each fee model!

7 Saturdays Financial is proud to be a flat-fee firm that receives no sales commissions.




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]]> https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/the-advisor-series-part-1/feed/ 0 Dividends: Why You Shouldn’t Care About Them https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/dividend-investing/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=dividend-investing https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/dividend-investing/#respond Thu, 27 Jan 2022 23:29:33 +0000 https://7saturdaysfinancial.com/?p=809 Although dividend investing is popular among investors, that focus can be misguided. It should be considered more of a “feel good” strategy than a good strategy. In this post, I'll explain why dividends are irrelevant.

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Although dividend investing is popular among investors, that focus can be misguided. It should be considered more of a “feel good” strategy than a good strategy. In this post, I’ll explain why dividends are irrelevant and dividend investing is irrational.


What is a Dividend?


A dividend is a method for a company to distribute earnings to its owners. At some point, a profitable company will end up with a residual amount of cash on the books. Management can choose to do one of three things with this accumulated profit –

  1. Company reinvestment: new factory, expand to new markets, pay down debt
  2. Distribute cash to shareholders via share repurchase (buyback)
  3. Distribute cash to shareholders via dividend

We can evaluate each option in the context of the fundamental accounting formula:

A = L + E (assets equals liabilities plus equity)

As shareholders, we are most interested in maximizing our equity value, so we rearrange the formula to:

E = A – L (equity equals assets minus liabilities)

This is very similar to individual net worth but we’re looking at company “net worth”.


What effect does company reinvestment have on stock value?


Initially, reinvestment has a neutral effect on equity – the company exchanges a cash asset for a capital asset or an equal reduction in liabilities. The business usually reinvests to generate growth in the future, and this is a common strategy for growth companies like Amazon, Facebook, etc.

The market may perceive this company investment as a positive sign, increasing growth expectations and raising the present value of the stock.


What effect does a share buyback have on stock value?


A share buyback has a neutral effect on equity.

Cash leaves the balance sheet to buy company shares. This reduction of assets (cash) reduces total equity value, but shares outstanding decreases and equity value per share increases proportionally. So, the net effect per share is flat.

A good analogy to visualize the share buyback is a pizza cut into six slices vs. eight slices – if you own half the pizza, it doesn’t matter if that’s 3 large or 4 small slices. The proportion of ownership and the value is the same.


What effect does a dividend have on stock value?


A dividend has a negative effect on equity as of the ex-dividend date (the owner on that date is entitled to the dividend a few weeks later).

This is because cash paid as a dividend leaves the company’s balance sheet and gets paid to shareholders. Companies typically pay dividends when they have limited opportunities to invest internally for growth, choosing to distribute profit to investors instead.

Wait! What happened with dividends?

All the options seem fine except dividends, which cause a very real and very negative drop in equity value! Why does share value drop from the dividend?

Think about a hypothetical scenario where you have a business for sale in your town with a fair value of $1M that happens to have $100K cash in its bank account. What would happen if the current owner decided to empty the account before sale? What would the business be worth now?

You guessed it, the business would now only be worth $900K.

A company with $0 cash is worth $100K less than a company with $100K cash. 


Dividends are not a bonus because equity value drops by the dividend amount.


This time, let’s explore with some math from the investor’s perspective.

Company A and Company B are both worth $100 per share with 100 shares outstanding and have $5 per share to distribute. Company A chooses to use dividends, and Company B uses share repurchase (buyback).

Per-share value of Company A is easy: pre-dividend = $100, post-dividend = $95

Per-share value of Company B is a little more complex – The company will part with $5 per share in cash which will buy $5 x 100 or $500 worth of stock, equivalent to 5 shares.

Reducing the value of Company B by 5% and decreasing the number of shares outstanding by 5% will net each other out, and per-share value remains at $100. This is the same value that Company B would have if it chose to reinvest profit back into the business.


Dividend vs share buyback

Effectively, the dividend investor who owns Company A stock is in the same position as a company B investor who decided to sell $5 worth of his shares

A dividend is, to the investor, equivalent to a forced liquidation of shares!

The only difference is that the Company B investor gets to choose when and how much stock is liquidated – Company A management chooses for their investors.

The Company A investor can also choose to reinvest the dividend and bring their total equity back up to $100 – same as the company reinvestment and buyback scenarios.


Dividends are irrelevant because an investor can create a homemade dividend at any time by selling appreciated shares.


Given what we’ve discussed above, a rational investor should be indifferent to income return (dividend) vs. growth return (capital gains). Modigliani and Miller figured this out back in 1961.


Total Return = Income + Growth (capital gain)


Total return is what ultimately matters since a capital gain can be turned into a dividend, or a dividend can be reinvested to be a future capital gain. Dividends are not magic – they are just one component of total return.

Okay, so we’ve established that dividend vs. capital gain is irrelevant because they’re interchangeable. Despite this, many investors narrow their investment selection to only high dividend payers – 4% and above.


Why is focusing on high dividend stocks irrational?


1) Tax drag


In a taxable account, dividends create tax drag which lowers long-term returns. Tax drag occurs because realized dividends are taxed every year and the tax paid reduces the amount that can be invested. Higher dividends and longer investment horizons will cause more tax drag, so capital gains are preferable to dividends in non-qualified accounts. Deferring tax is always better than realizing it every year if rates are the same.

An investor can defer realizing capital gains until they have offsetting losses or until they are in a low-income year, harvesting those gains at 0%. They have no such control with dividends.

Additionally, under current law, capital gains can be deferred until the original owner’s death at which time the heirs receive a “step up” in basis and can sell immediately with zero tax. Tax drag does not apply in tax sheltered accounts like 401(k), IRA, etc. or if the investor is currently at or under the 12% bracket paying 0% on qualified dividends and capital gains.

Pro tip: Generally it’s best to hold higher income assets like high dividend stocks or REITs in tax sheltered accounts to minimize tax drag.


2) Avoiding Growth Companies


Growth companies typically reinvest a large portion of their cash back into the business rather than distributing cash to shareholders. The top 10 US companies by market cap (total equity value) and their dividend yields are: Apple (0.50%), Microsoft (0.79%), Google (0%), Amazon (0%), Tesla (0%), Facebook (0%), Berkshire Hathaway (0%), Nvidia (0.06%), Chase (2.39%), and Visa (0.7%).

Notice that half pay zero dividends and the top payer (Chase) pays a paltry 2.39%, barely above the index as a whole. Warren Buffett, CEO of Berkshire Hathaway, has said that his three priorities for cash are reinvesting into the business, making acquisitions, and buying back stock (page 19). No dividends.

Since 1926, dividends have only been responsible for about one third of the total return of the S&P500 with capital gains contributing the remainder. Capital gains are clearly an important component to total return!

If you filtered out these enormously successful companies based on their low dividends (or no dividends at all), it would mean missing out on the portfolio boost that their explosive growth has provided!


3) Falling into a Value Trap


High dividend payers (4%+) choose to distribute a higher proportion of their earnings than the broad index (~2%), which means less cash available for the company to invest in growth opportunities. These mega yield companies are often operating on mega debt and can be one recession away from bankruptcy.

High yield can result from 1) paying high dividends or 2) falling market value. The latter results in a “value trap”, when a company looks attractive from a P/E or dividend yield perspective, only because the price is falling faster than earnings or dividends. A nosedive in the stock price will cause P/E to decrease and D/P (dividend yield) to increase.

Keep in mind that every bankrupt company turned into a value trap on its way down.

General Electric, while not bankrupt yet, is a great example to show how stock price affects dividend yield:


GE yield trap

Notice the spikes in dividend yield (right axis) often correlate with a decrease in stock price (left axis). An unsuspecting dividend investor, lured in by the rising dividend circa 2008, would have enjoyed falling prices which caused a 5% dividend followed by one over 12%… and ultimately, disaster.


4) Less Portfolio Diversification


Selecting high dividend companies will concentrate a portfolio into a subset of sectors/market segments/risk factors. Typically, a portfolio of dividend stocks will have a heavy emphasis on market and value factors while tilting toward large-cap companies. These factor exposures are much more predictive of portfolio returns than a measure like dividend yield.

Diversification within and across asset classes is key to ensuring your share of market returns. Unless you have an information advantage over the millions of other investors, how can you expect to generate outsized (total) returns by simply focusing on dividends?

If something as simple as current dividend yield or dividend growth were an indicator of higher risk-adjusted returns in the future, it would quickly be identified and arbitraged away.


Why do investors focus on dividends rather than total return?


That’s the million dollar question. There are several factors that can contribute to this effect.

First, humans all display some degree of mental accounting bias which causes us to treat equal sums of money differently based on their source. One example of mental accounting is treating a bonus or tax refund (trip to Cabo?) differently than a regular paycheck (bills and savings), even though dollars are all the same (fungible).

A preference for income rather than growth (which a shareholder can turn into income at any time) is an excellent example of mental accounting. Investors sometimes view a cash dividend as a “bird in the hand” whereas a future capital gain is uncertain. Income investing is a popular strategy among many retirees and, behaviorally, it can be much easier to spend dividends rather than selling shares to raise cash.

Many novice investors seem to view dividends are the only source of equity return and completely ignore capital gains in the total return equation, not understanding that a dividend paid equals a lower share price.

Additionally, people often perceive dividends as “lower risk” than capital gains – in fact, many investors believe high dividend stocks are an effective bond substitute in this low interest rate regime. However, this is misguided as firms can (and do) cut dividends during economic downturns. The dividends cause an even more significant price decline than if the company reinvested that cash or bought back shares. Remember – to the investor, a dividend is equivalent to a forced liquidation.

As far as a substitute for bonds? Dividend stocks are still stocks, highly correlated with the overall market. When stocks crash during a recession, dividend stocks are also crashing. This is precisely the time when you need the diversification benefit of other asset classes as a portfolio ballast.

Pro Tip: If everything in your portfolio is usually up (or down) at the same time, you’re not really diversified. 


Conclusion


Dividends are not a magic bullet. Narrowing your investment universe to focus on them can cause serious portfolio issues including tax drag, less diversification, and missing growth.

Since dividends are irrelevant, focus on total return and consider potential additions to your portfolio in the context of how they affect risk and return of the entire portfolio – not in isolation.

If you need help designing a portfolio that is appropriate for your goals, reach out to 7 Saturdays Financial for a free consultation.




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